On a Baltic cruise? You can get to Berlin from the German port cities of Rostock and Warnemunde. You’ll need to prepare yourself to hit the ground running, however, as Berlin is nearly a three-hour journey each way. Here’s how to make the most of one day in Berlin.

Prepare for a long day for the 150-mile journey by train or bus to Germany’s capital.

Your goal is to see the major sites, including the remains of the Berlin Wall, historic Brandenburg Gate and the controversial Reichstag building. You can do all that, and you’ll also have time to walk Berlin’s most famous boulevards and sample one of the city’s many museums. No time for a long lunch, so fortify yourself with a Berlin favorite, currywurst, or sausage with a special curry sauce, which you’ll have no trouble finding.

Getting Going
After arriving at Berlin’s main train station get yourself on the S Bahn to the Zoologischer Garten (it’s only three stops - about 10 minutes). Once there, head outside to admire the Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche, destroyed in a World War II air-raid. The emotional effect of seeing the stark shell of the church is a powerful reminder of the devastating effect of war.

Board double-decker Bus 100 in front of the Zoo railway station for city tour using public transportation. Take a seat on top to enjoy the scenic ride that carries you through the Tiergarten (Berlin’s large city park), past the Reichstag, along Unter den Linden, and around Alexanderplatz, the open square and public transport hub.

Exit the bus at Museum Island, an island in the Spree River where there are four internationally renowned museums. Any one of them is worth your time, but since you are trying to maintain a schedule, limit yourself to the most popular, the Pergamon, home to original-sized, reconstructed monumental buildings such as the Pergamon Altar, the Market Gate of Miletus, and the Ishtar Gate, all consisting of parts transported from the original excavation sites.

Other museums here are the neoclassical Old Museum, featuring antiquities; the New Museum, which is being rebuilt from damage inflicted during WWII but, when it reopens, will exhibit the Egyptian and Pre- and Early History Collections including the famous bust of the Egyptian queen Nefertiti; and the Old National Gallery, showing many important 19th century art works.

Leaving Museum Island, stroll along Unter den Linden (pictured) until you reach Pariser Platz, a prestigious address in prewar times that has returned to its former glory. Surrounding the square are the American, French and British embassies, and on one corner is the beautiful Hotel Adlon Kempinski Berlin. Take a seat at an outdoor table at Restaurant Quarré and split a Chocolate milkshake, pricey at 9 euros, but worth the experience and the view — and plentiful enough for two.

From your seat outside Hotel Adlon, take time to admire Brandenburg Gate, once the formal entrance to the city and still a grand symbol of Berlin. When you’re done, head through the Gate, across Ebertstrasse, to the Reichstag. The first parliament of the German Empire, the Reichstag was opened in 1894 and housed the German parliament until 1933, when it was severely damaged in a fire supposedly set by a Dutch communist.

This fire proved to be a valuable excuse for the Nazis to suspend most civil rights and increase the state security apparatus. Following World War II, the Reichstag building again became the seat of the German parliament, and in October 1990, the official German reunification ceremony was held there. The building was completely reconstructed in a project led by architect Norman Foster and completed in 1999. Check your watch. If time allows, take the free elevator up into the dome, which the locals call “the light bulb,” for stunning city views and to watch the democratic process take place below.

Head back to Ebertstrasse to the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe (pictured). Also known as the Holocaust Memorial, the five-acre site has thousands of irregularly sized concrete slabs arranged in an unpredictable grid.

According to the designer’s project text, the slabs are designed to produce an uneasy, confusing atmosphere, and the whole sculpture aims to represent a supposedly ordered system that has lost touch with human reason. About a block away, you’ll find a sign marking the spot of the bunker where Adolf Hitler and his wife Eva Braun committed suicide.

Move on to Potsdamer Platz, a study in urban renewal and modern architecture, and continue to the Topography of Terror, a free, open-air exhibit on the organizations of the SS and the Gestapo, their crimes and their victims.

The site is bordered by a remaining stretch of the Berlin Wall. Checkpoint Charlie lies another 250 yards further east. After viewing the Topography of Terror, continue on to the Mauermusuem Haus am Checkpoint Charlie, which is open until 10 p.m.

From Checkpoint Charlie, walk up the other side of Friederichstrasse six blocks to Berlin’s most beautiful plaza, Gendarmenmarkt (pictured).

Twin cathedrals (French and German) topped by tall domes in the gorgeous Baroque style anchor this square, with the grand Konzerthaus standing between them. Each church has attractions: On the south side, the Deutscher Dom offers a government history museum, while the Franzosischer Dom has a nice restaurant and a tower with wine bar and dizzying spiral staircase leading to a panorama view.

Find your way to double-decker bus 200 to travel the opposite side of the Tiergarten to the Zoo, and make your way back to the main train station.

Shuffling my feet along a street made from marble slabs, I am following in the footsteps of the Virgin Mary, who, our guide tells us, lived near this ancient city, now part of Turkey, in the final years of her life.

The Marble Road cuts through the heart of what was the second largest city in the Roman Empire. Our guide points to grooves carved from the frequent traffic of chariots and carts, and to beautiful mosaic sidewalks alongside the road. Mark Antony and Cleopatra rode in procession here. St. John lived nearby.

Temples and businesses lined the Marble Road. Now only ruins remain. The two-story façade of the Celsus Library boasted 12,000 papyrus scrolls when it was built in the 2nd century. Across from it, a brothel, now roofless, has traces of frescoes and mosaics on walls still intact.

Walking the Marble Road is a walk through classical Greece and early Roman history. Ships call at Kusadasi, less than 30 minutes by bus from the ruins of Ephesus.

Stockholm may just be the most beautiful city in the world to reach by water.

If you are in Stockholm for a few days, you surely will want to venture out to the archipelago on ships that depart from the city center. It’s about a two-hour journey to Sandhamn, a small village where you can take lunch at Sandhamns Vardshus before setting out on kayaks for smaller, uninhabited islands just a few miles away. Return to relax in the sauna before boarding the ship back to Stockholm. The experience is quintessentially Swedish and one that should not be missed.

Most ships transit the archipelago to reach Stockholm’s city center. Some, however, dock at Nynashamn, about an hour’s drive from Stockholm’s city center. If your ship docks at the city center (or if you’re staying pre- or post-cruise), make your way to the Grand Hotel, a 30-minute easy walk from the terminal. Along the way, stop at the medieval old town, Gamla Stan, with its charming cobblestone streets, museums, shops and restaurants, Here at Gamla Stan, you’re standing on one of 14 islands that make up this city that appears to be floating on water. Locks at Gamla Stan separate Lake Malaren (60 miles long) from the Baltic Sea.

Spend a few hours in and around the old town. In the vicinity is the Nobel Museum (Stockholm is home to the Nobel Prize), the Cathedral of Stockholm, which features Scandinavia’s largest medieval monument, St. George and the Dragon, a wooden sculpture made of elk antlers and oak carved in 1489; and the Royal Palace (changing of the guard is at noon).

Stop for lunch al fresco at Martin Trotzig at Vasterlanggatan 79 in Gamla Stan or any of the many fine restaurants (try a glass of Swedish beer, Pripps), then head to the quay in front of the Grand Hotel to hop a canal cruise. A selection of cruises are offered ranging from one hour to nearly three hours.

Upon your return, continue to walk a few streets behind the Grand Hotel for about 15 minutes along Strandvagen, to the Vasa Museum, which houses a warship (the actual ship, not a model) that in 1628 sank in the harbor on its maiden voyage and was brought up from the depths in 1961. Nothing can prepare you for the scale of what you will see in the city’s most popular museum, built in 1990. Plan to spend at least two hours exploring all six floors of the exhibit.

The Vasa Museum is situated in Djurgarden, once a Royal deer park that is now home to Ekoparken, the world’s first city national park. Rent three-speed bikes at Skepp & Hoj (near the bridge that you crossed to get to the Vasa Museum) and pedal through the park.

Spend at least a couple of hours to walk through five centuries of Swedish history at Skansen, then cross the street to the amusement park known as Grona Lunds Tivoli. From just outside the amusement park, take the ferry to Slussen to appreciate Stockholm from the water and to arrive back at Gamla Stan.

Head over to City Hall, the beautiful brick building where Nobel festivities are presented each December. Of particular interest is the Golden Room and its mosaic, made of 18.5 million gold leaves. Be sure to climb the tower for spectacular city views from more than 300 feet above the ground. You can see Gamla Stan down below. It appears in the shape of a heart.

At Stadshusbron by the City Hall, board the steam-powered SS Drottningholm, built in 1909, for a voyage through Lake Malaren to Drottningholm Palace, an hour’s chug away. The palace, where building began in 1662, has been home to the Swedish Royal Family since 1981.

When you return, head to the Ice Bar, located in the Nordic Sea Hotel, near Central Station. The price of admission includes use of capes, mitts and slippers to keep you warm inside the below-freezing bar and an Absolut cocktail (or lingonberry juice) served in glasses made from ice. The Ice Bar and nearly all in it is made from 20 tons of ice from Northern Sweden’s Torne River. If you want to take home a souvenir, purchase ice glasses, packed in a special box to keep them from melting. You’ll have to rush home, though. The gifts are guaranteed for only 24 hours.

Be sure to pick up a Stockholm Card, which gives you free admission to museums (Stockholm boasts the world’s highest concentration of museums) and attractions, free sightseeing by boat, and free transportation on the subway, local buses and trains.

It’s a good thing that Stockholm enjoys 20 hours of sunlight during summers. With so much to do and see, you’re going to need it.

Most cruise passengers arrive in Stockholm at one of two places: Arlanda Airport (Stockholm serves as the initial port of departure for many cruises); or for those arriving by sea, the city center.

If your cruise is departing from Stockholm, plan to arrive at least a day before your cruise so that you can take in the sights before setting sail. Ideally, arrive two days early to see more of what Stockholm has to offer.

If you spend an extra day or two in Stockholm, be sure to pick up the Stockholm Card, a money-saving program that provides free or discounted admission to attractions and transportation within greater Stockholm.

PLEASE NOTE: Prices and exchange rates mentioned here are approximate. Rates may vary.

Q: Where Do I Find My Ship?
A: Stockholm has seven locations for docking. Most ships transit the archipelago to dock in the city center. Others dock at Nynashamn, an hour’s transit away.

Q: How Do I Get From The Airport To The City Center?
A: Most cruise lines offer transfers, but if you want to transfer on your own, Stockholm’s city center can be reached from the airport in about 20 minutes on the Arlanda Express for about $25 per person. Trains leave every 15 minutes between 5:35 a.m. and 9:05 p.m. There are frequent bus services operating between the airport and the city from 6:40 a.m. to 9:45 p.m. Travel time is 40 minutes.

Q: How Do I Get From My Ship To The City Center?
A: If your ship docks at the city center, make your way to the Grand Hotel, a 30-minute easy walk from the terminal. Along the way, stop at the medieval old town, Gamla Stan, with its charming cobblestone streets, museums, shops and restaurants, Here at Gamla Stan, you’re standing on one of 14 islands that make up this city that appears to be floating on water. Locks at Gamla Stan separate Lake Malaren (60 miles long) from the Baltic Sea.

Q: Is There A Package That Provides Admission To Various Attractions, All For One Price?
A: The Stockholm Card includes admission to museums and attractions, free travel on local public transport, free parking at municipal car parks in the city, free sightseeing by boat on selected departures during summer and an illustrated guidebook with maps and several other offers. The card can be purchased at Tourist Information Centers in Stockholm, at SL centers (SL=local transportation network), some hotels and a few sights (City Hall and the Royal Palace). The card can also be ordered on-line at www.stockholmtown.com. Choose between a 24-hour, 48-hour or a 72-hour card. Cards are available for children at reduced rates.

Q: Where Do I Find Information Once In Stockholm?
A: Stockholm has a tourist information at Sweden House, Kungstradgarden, Hamngatan 27 - and during the cruise season, near the docks, at Frihamnen 638 and at Stadsgarden 165/167.

Q: How Do I Find Information On The Web About Stockholm?
A: www.stockholmtown.com and www.stockholmcruise.com (be sure to click the icon for English if the web site appears in an unfamiliar language).

Q: Where Can I Kayak In Stockholm?
A: If you’re staying in Stockholm for more than a day, do what the locals do whenever they get an opportunity: Get out to the archipelago, which stretches nearly 50 miles east of Stockholm. Many of the islands are uninhabited, rocky outcrops that are homes to birds.

Q: Is It Possible To Bicycle In Stockholm?

Yes. Rent three-speed bikes at Skepp & Hoj (near the bridge at the Vasa Museum) and pedal through Djurgarden, once a Royal deer park that is now home to Ekoparken, the world’s first city national park.

If there is one phrase that characterizes Quebec, it is ‘et pourquoi pas?’ The phrase, which translates to ‘and why not?’ seems to be on the tip of every Quebecer’s tongue. It is a ready response of permissiveness and tolerance, a defender of an important concept — the joie de vivre or ‘joy of living’ — that is alive and thriving in Quebec.

And no place more so than in Montreal, a metropolitan city of 2 million where anything and everything goes. ‘We don’t care if you’re straight, gay, whatever,’ says Aline Bernier, a Montreal city guide. ‘We’re very open to all people and lifestyles.’ (In 2006, both Traveler’s Digest and AskMen.com ranked Montreal as the world’s number one city to live in for its culture, architecture, history and ambience.)

That tolerance perhaps explains why Montreal is so good at welcoming visitors. Stroll down almost any street to feel the palpable city vibe. Sidewalk cafes spill over with patrons sipping coffee or glasses of wine or champagne (et pourquoi pas?), cyclists pedal along sections of the city’s 400 miles of biking trails, shoppers crowd boutiques and shops both above, and below, ground. That’s right: below ground. With 22 miles of mazes and walkways, Montreal boasts the world’s largest underground city.

Indeed, Montreal is a city of dual identities — an above ground metropolis and an underground city within a city; the French joie de vivre mixed with North American pragmatism; modern architecture (UNESCO designated Montreal a ‘City of Design’) mixed with a well-preserved historic quarter.

To put yourself in the center of it all, check in at the Intercontinental Montreal, a five-star hotel situated in the International Quarter and also linked to the Underground City. Or plant yourself at Hotel St. James. If nothing else, stop in the St. James to admire its grand architecture and perhaps take afternoon tea or a bite at XO Le Restaurant.

It’s an easy walk from either hotel to ‘Old Montreal,’ where the city was founded in 1642. (For arriving cruise passengers the cruise terminal also is located only a few blocks from the hotel and Old Montreal.) Find your way to Rue Saint-Paul, ‘the street’ where it all happens, our guide Celine tells us as we walk along the cobblestone roadway. You can drop in the Tourist Information Center or visit the official web site before leaving home for suggestions on what to see, but simply to walk and absorb the ambience is a sufficiently pleasurable experience.

Old Montreal embodies the many periods of the city’s history: the winding paths of the former French colony, 18th- and 19th-century architecture and the first Canadian skyscrapers. Architects came here from nearby Boston and other cities south of the Canadian border, so you’ll see a lot of American influence.

The center of Old Montreal is Place Jacques-Cartier, named for the explorer who founded the city. Walk to the top of the square to the monument of Admiral Nelson for superb views of the old port, then make your way down the festive sloping street past street artists, musicians, jugglers, mimes, face painters and other entertainers. Stop in a sidewalk cafe for lunch, a light snack, coffee or cocktail. Recommendations in the area include: Restaurant du Vieux Port (good and reasonably priced), or if you’re willing to spend a bit more, Auberge de Saint-Gabriel or the unique Jardin Nelson, with its beautiful gardens.

For a romantic, five-star dinner, hail a taxi for Casino de Montreal on Notre-Dame Island. Dine at Restaurant Nuances, awarded the 5-Diamond Award by the Canadian and U.S. AAA/CAA associations.

On one day of your visit, hop on a bicycle at Caroule Montreal on Wheels and ask the shop’s owner to direct you on a flat 25-mile ride along the canals. Break for lunch at Atwater Market, where you can pick up some cheese (La Fromagerie has more than 400 types of cheese from France and Quebec) and bread (from Premiere Moisson Bakery where the croissants are also tasty) and fresh vegetables. And that bottle of champagne you’re eyeing? As any Montrealer would tell you, ‘Et pourquoi pas?’

It’s a 2.5-hour drive from Quebec City to the Saguenay region. We pointed our car toward La Baie, where we checked in to L’ Auberge des 21. Located on the shore of the Saguenay Fjord, the warm family inn also features fine regional (read: French) cuisine at a shockingly good restaurant for such a small inn.

The fact that the food was so good, however, should have come as no surprise. Saguenay may just be the most French of all the areas we visited during a one-week post-cruise vacation. Here, French is by far the predominant language. Our guide Ingrid, who could express herself in English, had trouble pronouncing English words and phrases, such as ‘rural roads.’ The ‘r’s’ simply would not loosen themselves from her lips. Most of Saguenay’s tourists, Ingrid told us, came from France or Belgium, so there were plenty of opportunities to speak French but few opportunities to practice English.

The front desk receptionist at L’ Auberge des 21 had no trouble with English, however, and she waxed poetic about how great it was to live in this remote region of the world. Life is slower here, she said, and much of the emphasis is on nature and fine living. ‘We know how to breathe,’ she said, alluding to the fact that many of her guests came from the busy and breathless pace of the big cities. ‘It’s nature by day,’ she said, ‘and romance by night.’ Indeed, after a day of sailing, we dined exquisitely over a bottle of wine while looking out on the beautiful fjord.

If you seek cultural diversions, visit the Musee du Fjord, or Museum of the Fjords; Verrerie d’Art Touverre, a glass-art workshop; and Olivier Soapery, a living economuseum emphasizing the traditional craft of soap-making in the early 19th century. The latter two are called Economy Museums.

The highlight of our trip, however, was a morning sailing in Saguenay fjord. On many sailing excursions, whales, especially Beluga whales, are often seen, but we saw none on our sailing. Still, it was a wonderful day out on the fjord.

To get to La Baie, we drove through the interior, but to return to Quebec City, we charted a route along the St. Lawrence River, through Charlevoix, where we stopped in Baie-Saint-Paul. The entire town had turned out for a Tour de France style bike race. The streets were closed. Spectators sipped glasses of wine and cheered the riders. Had we not known better, we could have sworn we were in France. But that’s just the way our whole trip had been. It was hard to believe that we were just north of the U.S. border. Never had a place so near home felt so far away.

Quebec City offers beauty, fine dining and delightful diversions. And that’s just in the train station. Our three-hour train journey from Montreal to Quebec ended in what has been called ‘the most beautiful train station in North America.’ Reminiscent of similar grand terminals in Europe, Quebec City’s train station attracts those who come here not only to travel by rail but also to dine at the best steak house in town, according to our cab driver. The train station also houses a few shops and even a dentist office, should you want to dash in for a quick cleaning before the conductor calls ‘All Aboard.’

No matter how you arrive, you’ll find ‘the most European city in North America’ bubbling over with charm. Founded in 1608 as an outpost for France, Quebec City is considered to be the cradle of French civilization in North America. Old Quebec is the only North American fortified city north of Mexico whose walls still exist. Within the city walls, Quebec City has the feel of Europe, with its stone buildings and winding cobblestone streets.

Perhaps the city’s best known landmark is the Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac, the legendary 19th century castle turned hotel. With sweeping views overlooking the St. Lawrence River, the hotel stands sentinel over the city from its hilltop post at Cap-Diamant. After checking in, stroll Quebec City’s lovely streets, flanked by boutique shops and restaurants.

Just outside the Fairmont, step aboard the Funicular to travel between the hotel and the charming shopping street Rue Petit-Champlain. Or exit the hotel in the other direction to head outside Old Quebec’s city gate and stroll along Rue Saint-John. Be sure to visit Erico, a popular chocolate shop just outside the old city walls.

You could spend a couple of days strolling the streets of Quebec City, but don’t leave until you’ve rented a car or joined a tour to get to ile d’Orleans, less than 30 minutes away from the city center. The island is famous for its farms, strawberry fields, orchards and woodlands. Be sure to visit the Chocolaterie de l’ile d’Orleans, a chocolate factory situated in a 200-year-old ancestral house. Stop in at Forge a Pique-Assaut, where Guy Bel, a world renowned craftsman in wrought iron, demonstrates traditional forging; and Domaine Steinbach Cidrerie et Relais gourmand, a 30-acre estate that operates a biologically controlled apple orchard and an early-day vinegar and cider factory.

On your return to Quebec City, stop at Montmorency Falls, one and a half times higher than Niagara Falls. Ride the cable car to the top and walk across the bridge overhanging the falls.

Back at the Chateau Frontenac, dinner is only a short walk away. Make your way across Place d’Armes to Restaurant Gambrinus for Italian and French cuisine served by friendly staff in a charming setting as you gaze out the window at North America’s most European city.

To Be Considered: Quebec’s capital city will celebrate its 400th anniversary on July 3, 2008, an eventful time to be there if you’re planning a 2008 summer cruise.

Welcome to Quebec, the only Canadian province whose sole official language is French, only a short hop from the U.S. border, yet culturally worlds way. Indeed, the language and the lifestyle in this Eastern Canadian province are reminiscent of the motherland across the Atlantic. There is an authenticity of experience here that fools travelers into thinking they’re traveling not in Canada but in France itself.

It’s no faux French either. English does not even rank as an official language in Quebec, and though English is spoken with fluency in the big cities, things can get more challenging in the province’s hinterlands. A waiter in the village of La Bai apparently must have owned a French-English dictionary too heavy for him to heft, because each time we asked the English equivalent of a menu item, he trotted off to the kitchen and returned with the translation. The fact that he did so gladly was a clear indication that we were not in France.

Snobbery (that unfortunate French attribute) is conspicuously absent in Quebec; friendly people and genuine hospitality are not. Even locals who struggle with English are happy to give directions and advice. Extending the spirit of generosity to their bottom lines, many Montreal restaurants even invite patrons to ‘apportez votre vin,’ or ‘bring your own bottle of wine,’ making the cost of meals with wine ridiculously inexpensive when compared to what you would pay for similar meals with wine elsewhere.

Nearly 400 years after the French explorer Champlain sailed along the St. Lawrence River to pitch camp at what would become Quebec City, French Canadians still hold France in high esteem. Today, 82 percent of the population speaks French in this North American crossroads between America and Europe.

Like Champlain, a growing number of visitors are arriving via the St. Lawrence. May through October, cruise ships run regular itineraries between Quebec and East Coast ports in the United States, primarily Boston and New York. Cruises often begin or end in Montreal, stop for the day in Quebec City, cruise up beautiful Saguenay Fjord, and make their way along the Atlantic coast.

Cruise ‘turn arounds’ in Montreal provide a great opportunity to spend time in the area before or after your cruise. Combine Montreal with a three-hour train journey to Quebec City, then rent a car to drive to Saguenay. Return to the United States from international airports in Montreal and Quebec City. Seldom will U.S. travelers have the opportunity of being so close to a place that seems so far. It’s like having France in the backyard.

This week, we’ll begin posting reports on Montreal, Quebec City and Saguenay, providing you with all you need to know about how to make the most of your time pre- or post-cruise in this fascinating region of the world.

While many travelers embark on Canada/New England cruises for the blazing fall foliage, few water-bound travelers venture all the way down the St. Lawrence Seaway to end their cruises in Quebec (cruises, of course, also start in Quebec). From Boston, our cruise called on Bar Harbor, Maine; Halifax and Sydney, Nova Scotia; Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island; Saguenay Fjord; and Quebec City before ending in Montreal. Of those ports, I had been only to Halifax, which I loved.

A few years ago, I stepped into the cruise terminal in Halifax and sneezed, causing no fewer than five Nova Scotians to look up and reply, ‘Bless you.’ My feet had been planted only a few minutes on Canadian soil, and yet it appeared what the Scottish hairdresser working for Princess Cruises told me just might be true — that the people in Halifax were the nicest people she had ever met in a port. Step off the ship, and people politely offer you directions, maps and literature about the area — without trying to sell you anything at all.

But even as an avid cruiser, I had not given Quebec a lot of thought until The Avid Cruiser’s Summer 2005 issue, when Holland America Line Captain Jonathan Mercer chose Quebec City as his favorite port to sail into. It took me going there to see why Captain Mercer made his choice.

Known as the ‘most European city in North America,’ Quebec City is perhaps the most romantic city in North America too. Pitch camp at the legendary Le Chateau Frontenac, dine on fine cuisine at sidewalk cafes over a bottle of French wine, step into a horse-drawn carriage and listen to the clack of hooves on narrow cobblestone streets. The language, the lifestyle, the cuisine — nothing suggested we were just a few hours from the U.S. border.

Montreal was equally enchanting. The two cities, in fact, rank among the best I have ever visited. I liked them so much that I found myself looking for apartments to rent, a hazard of my profession.

I loved Saguenay too. I found it charming and relaxing and other-worldly. Life there seemed to revolve around the fjord and the fresh breezes off the water. As noted in one of the preceding stories, a hotel receptionist in La Baie, said of the Saguenay lifestyle, ‘We know how to breathe.’ That’s an important attribute that residents in few other places in the world can claim.

If you’ve read the stories preceding this one, it should be apparent that I also loved Quebec because it has many of the positive aspects of being in France — and none of the negative ones.

There’s no jetlag, as Quebec is only a short flight from most U.S. gateways. And although the Canadian dollar was gaining strength against the U.S. dollar when I was there and when this article went to press, Quebec is still a bargain when compared to most of Continental Europe. The fact that you can bring your own bottle of wine to many restaurants also makes Quebec even more of a bargain.

While my intention is not to bash France, comparisons are necessary with two places that are so much alike — and so very different. Quebec has none of the snobbery that many tourists attribute to France, deserved or not. Quebecers, in fact, are some of the friendliest and most hospitable people I’ve ever met.

If you’re ending or beginning a cruise in Quebec, you owe it to yourself to add a week (two nights in Montreal, three nights in Quebec City, and two nights in Saguenay). And if not, then it’s time to begin planning. Don’t do what I did and put off visiting Quebec. If you do, you’ll want to kick yourself for waiting so long.

YOU’VE GOT TO LIKE A TOWN WHOSE FIRST KNOWN EUROPEAN SETTLER WAS A PIRATE. Especially one who interrupted his illicit adventures to fight the heroically for the United States in the War of 1812.

That’s just what French privateer and smuggler Jean Lafitte did before returning to his old ways and setting up base camp in 1817 in the city that would become Galveston. Nearly 1,000 followers eventually came to live in the commune called Campeche, from which Lafitte and his pirates launched attacks against Spanish ships.

Now nearly two centuries after Lafitte, the strategic importance of Galveston has been recognized by a handful of cruise ships that operate both year-round and seasonally from the Lone Star state’s leading cruise passenger port.

Situated on 32-mile-long Galveston Island and fl anking the Gulf of Mexico, the city of Galveston and its modern cruise terminal are only 50 miles from Houston, the nation’s fourth largest city, and a quick sunny sail to Mexico, the Caribbean and Central America.

But while these exotic destinations beckon, Galveston itself merits at least a couple of nights pre or post-cruise, especially for those on one of the many short cruise itineraries offered from this port. Extend your four- or five-day cruise to make a full week’s vacation with time at sea mixed with time ashore at one of Galveston’s resorts, hotels or B&Bs.

In genteel Galveston, you’ll find Southern charm, activities and attractions for everyone, as well as a city that is both hospitable and easy to get around.

The downtown itself is dominated by restored 19th century buildings that have been converted to attractive shops and restaurants. To get acquainted with Galveston, take a stroll (or an evening horse drawn carriage ride) along The Strand, which became known as the “Wall Street of the Southwest,” for being home to the largest and most important wholesale houses west of the Mississippi River.

Because of the proximity from the cruise ship terminals, passengers — either disembarking the ship for a day or on pre- and post-cruise packages — will enjoy browsing the shops in The Historic Downtown Shopping District.

Visitors also enjoy casual strolling on Galveston Island’s historic seawall, built after the deadliest natural disaster in U.S. history hit Galveston Island in 1900. The storm — with winds exceeding 120 miles per hour and tidal surge — killed more than 6,000 people. To prevent such a natural disaster from devastating the island again, the city built a seawall seven miles long and 17 feet high. Galveston’s seawall now extends 10.4 miles and is a major attraction.

From soft sandy beaches to 19th century archi tecture, the 2.5-mile-wide island boasts not only in credible beauty but also unique history, which brings us back to Lafitte. While the pirate is long gone, his legacy lives on. In May 1821, after Lafitte’s attack on an American ship, he was forced to abandon his operations in Galveston.

Before leaving, however, he hosted a huge party for his pirates with wine and whiskey. Presumably with a “ho, ho, ho and a bottle of rum,” Lafitte burned his settlement. Legend has it that he also buried treasure on the island. It has never been found.

We’re not suggesting that by staying a few days that you will find Lafitte’s buried chest, but if you put yourself in the right frame of mind, you certainly will find treasure galore in Lafitte’s former home — Galveston.

Galveston’s downtown is compact by big-city standards, more than 36 square blocks. But within those blocks is more than 100 shops, antique stores, restaurants and art galleries. 

Begin your exploration in The Strand National Historic Landmark District (pick up a map and other literature at the Downtown Visitors Center at 2215 Strand in the Old Galveston Square Building, phone 409-797-5101). 

An easy walk for cruise passengers (one block from Carnival Corp.’s main terminal and just a little farther from where Royal Caribbean ships dock), The Strand National Historic Landmark District is an eclectic mix of shops and fun eateries. Boasting one of the country’s largest and best-preserved concentrations of Victorian-era architecture, the historic district underwent revitalization in the 1970s, beginning with The Strand Emporium and La King’s Confectionery. 

Stroll along several blocks of art galleries, funky shops and restaurants, and be sure to pay a visit to the historic Tremont House Hotel (don’t miss the Toujouse Bar for evening cocktails). And if you’re in the area during Mardi Gras season, you’ll be invited to join in on the fun and festivities. Another special event you won’t want to miss: Dickens on The Strand Victorian Holiday Festival.

Hop the Galveston Island Trolley to ride the steel-railed cars around The Strand and to Seawall Blvd. Fares are only $1 for adults and 50 cents for children 6-11 and seniors  (www.islandtransit.net, 409-797-3900). Or join the Duck Tour, a one hour narrated tour on a special vehicle that travels on land and in water (409-621-4771)

Be sure to visit the newly revitalized Postoffice Street Arts & Entertainment District, home to an impressive variety of art galleries, shops, restaurants, pubs and The Grand 1894 Opera House (www.thegrand.com, 800-821-1894). This district is one of Galveston’s most popular shopping and dining spots. You can also take a Carriage Ride through downtown. Look for carriages stationed throughout The Historic Downtown Shopping District. 

Another carriage ride takes you through the East End Historic District and its beautifully restored homes and mansions. Galveston offers 14 historic homes and museums open to the public. All of the historic homes predate The 1900 Storm. A 27-minute documentary on the hurricane titled, “The Great Storm” (alternates with the film “The Pirate Island of Jean Lafitte”), is shown daily at Pier 21 Theater (on Harborside Drive, phone 409-763-8808).

Pier 21, off Harborside Drive, was redeveloped in the early 1990s and now offers shops, portside restaurants and a charming hotel. 

Galveston boasts four districts on the National Register of Historic Places: The Strand National Historic Landmark District, East End National Historic District, Silk Stocking District and Central Business District. The city is home to three National Historic Landmarks: Tall Ship Elissa (one of the world’s most celebrated historical tall ships, built in 1877), East End and The Strand. Galveston Island also has approximately 1,500 historic buildings on the National Register of Historic Places.

One of those buildings (at 1402 Broadway, phone 409-762-2475) is The Bishop’s Palace, Galveston’s grandest and best-known building. Named for the Galveston-Houston Catholic diocese located here from 1923 - 1950, Bishop’s Palace is listed on the American Institute of Architects’ 100 most important buildings in America. Designed in 1866 by Nicholas Clayton, the ornate building features a hand-carved staircase that took three years to build and a fireplace lined in pure silver. 

You’ll also want to get yourself to Moody Gardens ( www.moodygardens.com, 800-582-4673), which features an Aquarium (with 100,000 square feet of exhibit space and 1.5 million gallons of water), The Colonel Paddlewheeler (an 800-passenger authentic reproduction of an 1800’s paddlewheeler), Discovery Pyramid (housing interactive space exhibits inspired by NASA), a 400-seat 3D IMAX Theater, a 10-story Rainforest Pyramid with lush tropical plants, butterflies, birds, the South’s largest bat exhibit and fish — and an IMAX Ridefilm Theater, which takes you on a fascinating adventure ride that combines state-of-the-art graphics and computer animation. Palm Beach is also here, with lagoons and waterfalls. Splish and splash at the new Schlitterbahn Waterpark (www.schlitterbahn.com) — open year-round.

Be sure to visit the nearby Lone Star Flight Museum, home of the Texas Aviation Hall of Fame and housing one of the nation’s finest collections of restored aircraft and aviation exhibits. 

Other one-of-a-kind museums include the Ocean Star Offshore Drilling Rig & Museum (www.oceanstaroec.com, 409-766-STAR) and the Texas Seaport Museum, with a local Ellis-Island twist — including the names of 133,000 immigrants who entered America at the port of Galveston, where the immigration station was second only to Ellis Island. 

Weatherwise: Galveston Island enjoys temperate weather year-round, averaging 57F in the winter months and 81F in summer months.

During the 1920s through the 1940s, Sam Maceo’s famous Galveston nightclubs, the Balinese Room and the Hollywood Dinner Club, were host to such performers as Phil Harris, Paul Whiteman, Guy Lombardo, Duke Ellington, Freddy Martin, Frank Sinatra, Peggy Lee and Jimmy Dorsey. Galveston attracted people from all over the nation with great dining, big name entertainment, roulette, blackjack, craps tables and slot machines. This era ended in 1957 when the Texas Rangers raided the city and closed all the illegal gambling spots. 

The Balinese Room has since been restored and reopened as a nightclub, and the long pier that leads to it now features shops and services, including a massage therapist whose treatment room features a glass floor that allows you to watch the waves while you relax).

When it comes to dancing, dining and shopping, Galveston does not disappoint. You’ll find no shortage of good restaurants within walking distance of the cruise terminals — and particularly along the waterfront. Fried and grilled seafood are a treat, and so are Gulf oysters, but there is a wide variety of restaurants with a range of offerings — from fast food and snacks to gourmet. 

For a view of the Port of Galveston and great seafood, stroll to Harborside Drive (one block off the Strand) and try Fisherman’s Wharf Seafood Grill or Willie G’s at Pier 21.

A few other restaurants worth mentioning: Mediterranean Chef Restaurant (Greek), at 2402 Strand; Yaga’s Tropical Cafe (Southwestern), 2314 Strand; and Luigi’s Ristorante Italiano (Italian), 2328 Strand. 

Fullen’s Waterwall Restaurant (burgers), 2110 Strand; JuJu’s Hangout and Bar (American), 2408 Strand, are other delectable choices. Speculoos Patisserie & Cafe, at the 216 23rd street address, is a perfect spot for breakfast or lunch. 

The selection continues on Postoffice Street with Rudy and Paco’s, 2028 Postoffice and The Saltwater Grill (said to have the best seafood in town), 2017 Postoffice. 

Don’t miss 21, an upscale wine and martini bar at 2102 Postoffice and Sky Bar, a metropolitan chic sushi restaurant and bar. Plus there’s O’Malley’s, Molly’s Pub and Old Cellar Bar, all in the 2000 block of Postoffice. 

Properly nourished, you’re ready for shopping, and while the pirate Jean Lafitte’s legendary buried treasure may have never been found, shoppers will find treasure aplenty in the 36-block historic district. 

The Historic Downtown Shopping District, more commonly as “The Strand” after a street with the same name in London, offers a variety of unique shops and even factory outlets. Most of the shops are within walking distance, providing a relaxing atmosphere to browse and enjoy Galveston’s beautiful weather. 

Three blocks from the Historic Downtown Shopping District, you’ll find Postoffice Street Arts & Entertainment District. Postoffice offers additional shops, art galleries and restaurants, all housed in brightly colored historic buildings. 

If your interest is in antique shops, don’t miss the Peanut Butter Warehouse, 102 20th Street, where you can venture through three floors of antiques, collectibles and gifts. Next door, Somewhere In Time, 124 20th Street, features an assortment of collectibles, pottery, toys and soda memorabilia. 

Looking for the latest trends in upscale fashion? Head for the boutiques on Postoffice Street. Stop in The Firm and Haba’s if you need to acquire sense of style. Then pop into The Nest, a small store filled with modern housewares and accessories. 

Bargain hunters should head for the Bass Outlet at 2314 Harborside Drive. Other stores include the New York Dress Outlet at 2228 Mechanic and Big Dogs at 2326 Strand. 

With more than 80 shops throughout the district offering everything from apparel, jewelry and gifts to collector’s items, there’s something for everyone. Visit The Atrium Boutique, 2313 Strand, the Admiralty Marine Model, 2221 Strand and Chico’s, 2215 Strand. 

Guys will appreciate Col. Bubbie’s Strand Surplus Center, 2202 Strand, offering surplus military clothing and supplies. Stop in one of the area’s oldest shops, La King’s Confectionery, 2323 Strand, for an old-fashioned soda and homemade candy.

Enjoy browsing through area art galleries? Visit Don Rouse’s Wildlife Gallery, 2314 Strand; and the Galveston Arts Center, 2127 Strand. 

Allow a few days to take in all the diversions, because Galveston Island is nothing short of paradise for diners and shoppers.

A. Many cruise passengers who fly to their Galveston cruises arrive at Houston’s George Bush Intercontinental Airport, 65 miles from Galveston. Closer is the William P. Hobby Airport, about 45 miles away. Yet the journey is about an hour and a half from either airport. You can rent a car and drive I-45 South through downtown Houston to Galveston, or Galveston Limousine offers frequent shuttle service from both airports to the cruise terminal. The fare is $30 ($50 roundtrip). For more information, call 800-640-4826 or visit www.galvestonlimousineservice.com. Other transportation companies: Extreme Elegance (866-799-5466); Karr’s Limousine Service (713-780-8300); and Jeff’s Cab & Shuttle Service (866-533-3222).

Q. Where do cruise ships dock?

A. All cruise ships dock within walking distance of downtown. Carnival Corp. ships (those operated by Carnival Cruise Lines and Princess Cruises) dock about a block closer than those ships operated by Royal Caribbean. Galveston’s cruise terminal is situated in an old Spanish-style stucco structure built in 1927 that is architecturally consistent with the rest of the downtown.

Q. Where do I stay before or after my cruise?

A. Accommodations on Galveston Island range from affordable motels to luxurious resort hotels and condominiums with Gulf views. One of the more popular hotels is The Tremont House (a Wyndham Historic Property), which is within walking distance of the port and used in both Royal Caribbean’s and Carnival’s pre- and post-cruise stays. For something more personal, choose one of the island’s historic bed and breakfast inns for a romantic getaway (The Queen Anne, for example, has won quite a few accolades — 800-472-0930, www.galvestonqueenanne.com). 

Q. Where do I find more tourist information?

A. Before your trip, contact the Galveston Island Convention and Visitors Bureau (409-763-4311 or 888-425-4753; www.galveston.com). Once ashore, visit the Galveston Island Visitors Center, located at 2027 61st Street (409-797-5000 or 888-GAL-ISLE), or the second location at 2215 Strand in the Old Galveston Square Building (409-797-5101).

Q. How do I get around in Galveston?

A. Galveston’s downtown is easy to walk, but if you prefer to get around on wheels, hop on the Galveston Island Trolley to ride the rails around The Strand area and along 25th Street to Seawall Blvd. Fares are $1 for adults and  50 cents for senior and children ages 6-11. For more information, visit www.islandtransit.net.

Q. What money-saving tips can you offer?

A. First, check with your hotel. Many offer free parking for the duration of your cruise (click on  www.galveston.com/cruising/). Second, check with rental car  companies. Some offer shuttle services between the airport and the cruise terminals. And finally, click on www.galveston.com/offers/ for money saving coupons and special offers.

If there is one city that should be on every avid cruiser’s list of must-see destinations, Venice is it. For starters, Venice is one world’s most unique cities — architecturally, historically and environmentally. Situated on a patchwork of more than 100 low-lying islands, Venice is sliced by canals. Thus, visitors see Venice in one of two ways: from the perspective of the water or on foot. 

Be prepared to wear down the soles of your shoes as you stroll Venice’s labyrinth of sidewalks and seaside esplanades. If you see all of Venice, you will have crossed more than 450 bridges (called ponti). Most are only a few steps up and down to cross the more than 150 canals that run through Venice. 

Walking is one of the best ways to explore this city where even getting lost can be fun. Finding your way around Venice often ends up in a serendipitous sojourn.

Narrow alleys can lead to wide piazzas (city squares) or dead-ends. You never know where a path might take you, even if you have a good map in your hand. 

On nearly every corner, you will find a gelato stand (don’t worry, serving sizes are small, so indulge yourself in this wonderful ice cream) or a bar with cold red or white wine from the tap and complimentary appetizers — olives, chips, crackers. Be spontaneous, stop in and strike up conversation with the bartender. One recommendation: The Accademia Bar, at the foot of the Accademia Bridge. 

It takes some time to get oriented, but it helps to know that Venice is comprised of six districts (sestieri) and divided by the Grand Canal, an S-shaped waterway that is the heart of the city. Only three bridges cross the Grand Canal, the most famous of which is the Rialto Bridge (Accademia and Scalzi are the two other bridges).

A good way to get an overview of Venice is to board a vaporetto (water bus). For the Grand Canal, board 

vaporetto number 1. It travels the complete 1.5-mile length of the Grand Canal at a pace that is slow enough for you to admire the 100 Gothic-Venetian palazzi (palaces) on either side.

You’ll be seeing the best face of Venice from the water, as the palace facades that face the canal were often given lavish architectural treatment. Vaporetto number 1 takes about 40 minutes to travel the length of the canal. If you’re enjoying the ride, stay on board for the return trip. 

Don’t even think about leaving Venice without a gondola ride. Yes, it can be pricey, 50 minutes for 73 Euros (91 Euros after 8 p.m.), but the time you spend in the gondola will go down as one of your most memorable travel experiences.

After you’ve cozied up under a blanket in the back of the gondola and listened to the quiet paddling and melodic voices of gondoliers, you’ll certainly leave thinking that Venice is one of the world’s most romantic cities. And you won’t be alone in thinking so.

Annually, more than 12 million people visit Venice. No wonder they come in such numbers. The city is recognized as an artistic and architectural patriarch. There is so much for the visitor to see and do that even a week hardly suffices. 

Of course, you will likely arrive with some sense of familiarity, although Venice has been portrayed in so many ways that visitors often find it difficult to distinguish the real city from its romantic interpretations in poem, prose, photographs and film. Indeed, avid cruisers arriving in Venice find themselves immersed in a place that seems otherworldly. But then Venice is like no place else on earth.

On your own in Venice, you will get lost — no matter how good your map or how finely attuned your sense of direction. But go ahead and lose yourself. That is part of the joy of being in Venice. Just make sure to carry a few Euros (the currency used in Venice). No doubt, you will want to refresh yourself with a snack or a glass of wine as you walk through Venice’s six districts, called sestieri. 

Follow our walking itinerary, with suggestions from the Veneto branch of Slow Food (an international organization that promotes food and wine culture), to visit Venice’s best kept secrets — quaint osterias, wine bars, specialty restaurants, markets and bakeries, and typical art and crafts shops.

Begin by making your way to San Marco across the city’s largest sestiere, Castello. Stroll the wide promenade, Riva degli Schiavoni, lined with outdoor cafés, vendors and views of the water.

Recommended restaurants: Da Remigio (behind the Chiesa dei Greci), a no-frills favorite among the locals, featuring specially prepared fresh fish; al Covo, a gourmet restaurant situated at Campiello della Pescheria; and Serenissima, in salizada dei Greci, known for its gnocchi, fresh pasta and ravioli stuffed with fresh vegetables, cheese and fish. 

Stop in at Vino … e vini, located at Fondamenta dei Furlani for gourmet specialties and great wine. On Via Garibaldi visit Bianchi and Al Garanghelo Inn, for a selection of cheese and sausages; and for sweet-lovers, Pasticceria Canonica features Pettinò chocolates and pralines.

In Campo San Zaccaria browse Mejorin jewelry before stopping at the bridge Ponte della Paglia to look down the canal at the Bridge of Sighs. The covered bridge links Doge’s Palace with the old prisons. 

In San Marco sestieri, take a seat at Café Florian (the French novelist Balzac used to watch the world pass from a table here) or Café Quadri, two of Venice’s most renowned cafés, situated in St. Mark’s Square. Take a seat outside and be prepared to pay a little extra for a glass of wine or coffee here for the privilege of admiring Venice from this perspective. When you’re done, proceed to Bacino Orseolo to browse books and art catalogs, even those out of print, at Sansovino.

Enjoy gelato (Italy’s delicious ice-cream) in Piazzetta San Marco at El Todaro, the city’s oldest gelateria, then visit the Byzantine Basilica San Marco. Crowned by five huge domes, it is the third church to stand on this site (the first, built in the 9th century, was built to enshrine the body of St. Mark). Best to visit in the afternoon. You won’t avoid the crowds, but the wait will be shorter than in the morning. Adjacent to the basilica is the colonnaded Doge’s Palace, a masterpiece of Gothic architecture.

For a bird’s-eye view, visit Campanile della Piazza San Marco, a 320-foot-high tower that offers views of the San Marco basin and the islands of the lagoon. Before leaving the area, don’t miss the Venini glass shop gallery in Piazzetta dei Leoncini. 

Just west of Piazza San Marco is a labyrinth of alleys that pass shops like the Camiceria San Marco in Calle Vallaresso for tailored shirts and blouses. Stop at the Monaco Grand Canal restaurant overlooking the canal and Harry’s Bar, a favorite watering hole of the late American writer Ernest Hemingway. Try the house cocktail: Bellini, made from prosecco and peach liquor. 

After refreshing yourself here, proceed to Calle Frezzerie to browse antique beads and jewelry at Paropamiso. Also nearby is Ghezzo (formerly Rolando Segalin) for tailored shoes, and Fescina for ornate gold and pearl necklaces and bracelets.

Stop at the Moretti glass shop in Campo San Moisé. Also nearby: Venetia Studium for scarves, lamps, bags and cushions in silk.  

Campo Santo Stefano is the doorway to the next sestiere, Dorsoduro. Find frames, mirrors, traditional Venetian doorstops or lamp-holders in the gilding and lacquering workshop Cavalier and paper decorated using the “ebru” technique and marbled effect from Valese. Stop for an ombra (glass of wine) at El Bacareto in Calle delle Botteghe, a street also known for its antiques shops and art galleries:  Zanutto, Antiquus, Kleine Galerie and Antichità San Samuele. Proceed to Palazzo Grassi to gaze upon the wooden hyperrealist sculptures by De Marchi.

It’s an easy walk from Campo Santo Stefano across the Grand Canal via the Accademia Bridge to Dorsoduro. At the foot of the bridge is the Gallerie dell‘Accademia, featuring the largest collection of Venetian art ever collected. Heading left takes you to the Peggy Guggenheim Collection (you may dine here too — at the cafeteria or at Ai Gondolieri restaurant serving meat-based cuisine in Fondamenta Ospedaletto). 

Stop in Campiello Barbaro to admire the hand printed paper at Carta da Cassetti. Proceed to the Baroque church Santa Maria della Salute, marking the southern end of the Grand Canal. Behind the church, walk along the Giudecca Canal where you may have lunch or dinner at Locanda Calcina restaurant on the terrace overlooking the canal. Or have an ice-cream specialty such as the Gianduiotto at Gelateria da Nico. 

Continuing toward Campo San Barnaba you will pass bistros and restaurants such as Quatro Feri and La Bitta (Calle lunga San Barnaba) or the Antica Locanda Montin (Fondamenta di Borgo). Visit the lute maker Francesco Trevisin; L’Angolo, for brightly colored velvet bags; and Da Annelie for nightshirts, sheets, tablecloths, curtains and baby clothes of embroidered linen. For an eno-gastronomic souvenir to take away, stop at Gastronomia Pantagruelica for a selection of Marcomini cheeses and salami specialties, or lard made by a small Friulan producer. 

From here, board a vaporetto (northbound Ca’ Rezzonico stop) to travel the Grand Canal to the next sestiere, San Polo and disembark at the Rialto Bridge, the most famous bridge in Venice, crossing between San Marco, San Polo and another sestiere called Santa Croce. 

At the foot of the bridge begins the Rialto Market, a fascinating maze of shops and stalls where Venice has congregated for centuries. Here, you will see green grocers and fishmongers, cheeses from Aliani and alla Casa del Parmigiano, spices and tea from Mascari. Parked along the street Ruga Vecchia San Giovanni is a cart of handmade wooden crafts: spoons, ladles and Pinocchios; hand-stitched made-to-measure shoes from Gabriele Gmeiner, in campiello del Sol; chic necklaces and earrings from Attombri located in Sotoportego degli Oresi. 

The best inns in the market area: the tiny All’Arco; the more spacious Ruga Rialto and Bancogiro, which features a wine-bar with kitchen; and Alla Madonna, an ideal inn for large groups. 

Caffè del Doge features fine coffees, hot chocolate, fresh fruit juices and pastries. For lunch or dinner in Calle della Regina, Al vecio Fritolin is known for its refined Venetian cooking (you may also stop off before dinner for an ombra and a scartosso di pesse frito — fried fish fingers). You’ll want to allow at least an hour here, before crossing the Rialto Bridge going to the Cannaregio sestiere at the northern end of the Grand Canal. 

Beyond the Rialto Bridge: la Bottega della solidarietà in Campo San Bartolomeo specializes in teas, honey, chocolate, spices, sauces, coffee, furnishings and accessories from the fair trade network. For a good ombra and a tasty sandwich, stop in Campiello del Tentor at ai Rusteghi.

Historically, the most fascinating part of this quarter is the Ghetto of Venice, the world’s oldest ghetto, with its museum and two synagogues, still open to service. To find it, walk along Strada Nuova. On your way, stop in Campo San Felice at La Cantina for ombra and tasty crostini and mini-rolls. 

Nearby is one of the city’s best value restaurants, Vini da Gigio, for good food and fine wines. In the Old Ghetto don’t miss Panificio Volpe for unleavened bread and Jewish sweets, and Gam-gam, a kosher restaurant with tables along the Cannareggio Canal. Also visit the Orsoni mosaic tile workshop (Sotoportego dei vedei).

A trip to Venice is one you’ll never forget — even if you choose to do nothing more than sit at an outdoor cafe and watch the world pass. If you’re staying a few extra days in Venice, there’s lot more to explore — not only in Venice itself but also in the outlying region known as Veneto.

Pre- and post-cruise stays should include not only Venice but also the surrounding region in northeastern Italy known as Veneto.

Exceptionally varied, Veneto offers cruise passengers more than 200 excursions — ranging from visits to vineyards, Veneto villas and historic cities to mountain bike adventures and alpine hikes.

As wine and food are essential experiences to any Veneto visit, we provide vineyards and restaurants recommended by the Veneto Branch of Slow Food (www.slowfood.com), an international organization that promotes food and wine culture.

Slow Food’s “Seal of Approval” assures the highest standards in food and wine products. The Slow Food movement began in 1986 in a small restaurant serving local specialties in the north Italian town of Bra and has since grown to become an 83,000-strong international movement against living in the fast lane.

A little more than 60 miles from Venice are the Dolomites, mountains characterized by impressive snow-covered peaks, awe-inspiring views, charming hamlets, onion-domed churches and Tyrolean farmsteads (the fact that German is widely spoken in this region reflects the strong historic links with the Austrian Tyrol).

A winter-sports mecca, the Dolomites offer skiing year-round as well as nature hikes and other outdoor activities. Cansiglio, a high plateau of vast pastures and woods, is known for its dairies, which provide high-quality milk as well as organic butter and cheese.

Slow Food Recommended Restaurants: The area of Alpago is home to two of Italy’s finest restaurants, Dolada and Locanda San Lorenzo, which alone are worth the trip to the Dolomites.

An hour’s drive from Venice, Verona is home to the Shakespearean lovers Romeo and Juliet (the real lovers died here in 1303). The city is one of noble palaces, quiet cloisters, fine Renaissance gardens and an amphitheater (the world’s third largest) completed in AD 30.

Verona appears to have been predestined to become one of Veneto’s wine capitals, a fact apparent to anyone who visits the two squares that represent the hub of the city: the Bra, overlooked by the Arena, and piazza delle Erbe. Spoking off of these squares through a tangle of back streets is the Osterie, where small inns have outlived changes in fashions and time to offer the best of traditional Veronese cuisine.

Slow Food Recommended Restaurants: Al Bersagliere and Al Pompiere.

The province of Verona is one of Veneto’s highest-quality wine-producing regions, particularly the Valpolicella area, where Amarone, Recioto and Valpolicella wines rule undisputed.

Slow Food Recommended Winery: Allegrini vineyards at Fumane produces some of the region’s highest quality wines. 

Within easy reach of Verona is Italy’s largest lake, Lake Garda, situated between the Dolomites and the Po River plain.

Nearby, Vicenza is known as the city of Andrea Palladio, the most influential architect during his lifetime (1508-1580). His distinctive style is evident throughout the city.

Slow Food Recommended Winery: Just a few miles from Vicenza, on the hills around Marostica and Breganze, is Cantina Beato Bartolomeo da Breganze, producer of the excellent Torcolato, Vespaiolo, Merlot and other autochthonous wines.

Padua is a university town 25 miles from Venice. The university, founded in 1222, is the second oldest in Italy. A major museum complex, Eremitani, features the paintings of Giotto di Bondone, the most important Italian painter of the 14th century, and Andrea Mantegna, northern Italy’s first Renaissance artist.

Slow Food Recommended Restaurant and Winery: Near Padua, Count Giordano Emo Capodilista’s wine-producing company is one of the best in the Veneto region. Located at Selvazzano in the Euganean Hills, a region formed by ancient volcanos and well known for its thermal spas, the winery is named for the villa where it is located: Montecchia. Join a hosted tasting, then head for the nearby Montecchia Golf Club, home to one of the region’s most prestigious restaurants.

A bus or boat tour along the 22-mile Riviera del Brenta (a canal between Venice and Padua) takes visitors past fine patrician villas that were built as summer residences for 17th century Venetian aristocracy. With the exception of Venice, Riviera del Brenta is undoubtedly the area of Veneto with the greatest tradition in seafood.

Slow Food’s Recommended Restaurant: La Ragnatela, in Mirano, for fresh seafood characteristic of the Venetian style. 

Q: How do I get from the ship to St. Mark’s Square?

A:  For 5 Euros you can hop on Alilaguna, a public water shuttle (www.alilaguna.it) that connects Marittima Cruise Terminals to St. Mark’s Square in about 15 minutes (operates every 20 minutes).

Q: How do I get from the airport to my ship?

A: The Venice Airport Marco Polo (www.veniceairport.com) is about 10 miles from the Port of Venice. Most cruise lines provide transfers, but there are alternative means of reaching the port: 

• Taxi (about 20 minutes) 
• Water taxi (about 40 minutes) 
• Alilaguna water shuttle (about 60 minutes)
• Public bus (www.actv.it) line number 5 or ATVO shuttle buses (www.atvo.it) arriving in Piazzale Roma, near the Port of Venice (about 20 minutes) 

Q: Where do I find information once in Venice?

A: In the cruise terminal, or if you’re staying in Venice, visit the Venice Tourist Board offices at Piazzale Roma, St. Lucia Railway station and St. Mark’s Square. Telephone is (+39) 041 529 87 11. 

Q: How can I prebook a visit to the museums and monuments in St. Mark’s Square?

A: In St. Mark’s Square and surrounding areas are museums and collections of immense artistic and historical importance, such as Doge’s Palace, Museum Correr, National Archaeological Museum and Monumental Rooms of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana. The museums are grouped around various areas of interest: St. Mark’s Square, 18th-century Venice, modern and contemporary art, natural history and ethnography. Book a guided tour or special secret itineraries at the Doge’s Palace in advance at www.museiciviciveneziani.it (supplementary charge of 1 Euro). 

Q: What hotels do you recommend in the city center?

A: We recommend the following hotels. 

• Bauer Hotel
• Ca’ Sagredo Hotel
• Dei Dogi, a Boscolo Luxury Hotel
• Hotel Cipriani & Palazzo Vendramin 
• Hotel Gritti Palace 
• Luna Hotel Baglioni 
• The Westin Europa & Regina

From Buenos Aires, Argentina, around Cape Horn to Valparaiso, Chile, or in the reverse direction, “Round Cape Horn” cruises are South America’s most popular itineraries. You’ll typically spend two weeks on board ship, and some ships overnight in the embarkation/disembarkation ports. For a full taste of Buenos Aires or Santiago (about 90 minutes from the port of Valparaiso), however, you’ll want to build in extra time before or after your cruise. 

You’ll find the two capital cities distinctly different. Buenos Aires, still reeling from Argentina’s economic collapse in 2002, is cheaper, more colorful and livelier than Santiago, but the Chilean capital offers easy access to wine country in a nation increasingly renowned for its quality vineyards. Plus Chile itself offers some of the most striking geography in South America.

Two nights in Buenos Aires is sufficient to take in the Argentine capital (although a third or fourth night allows visitors to get to Iquacu Falls on the Argentine-Brazil border), but at least three nights are required to see the sights around Santiago — particularly if you plan to visit the area’s wine country. 

Dust off your Spanish phrasebook, but be prepared for some surprises. Argentines pronounce the double “l” as “sh,” so that a phonetic phrase such as “me yamo (me llamo),” is pronounced “me shamo.” Chileans use different words altogether. Avocado, known as aguacate throughout most of the Spanish-speaking world, is “palta” in Chile. Still, grade-school Spanish will help, although English is widely spoken in tourist areas.

Remember that South America’s seasons are reverse from North America’s, so the summer cruise season is staged during the North American winter. 

In January, I flew to Buenos Aires for a cruise around legendary Cape Horn to Valparaiso, Chile. My schedule was to fly from the United States late one evening, arrive in Buenos Aires the next morning, do a quick city tour on the way to the ship, board and sail away. What a pity. I would breeze through one of the world’s greatest cities and see almost nothing. 

But that was not the way my experience in Buenos Aires turned out. I changed my flight to arrive in the Argentine capital two days before the cruise, and I’m glad I did. I found Buenos Aires easy to get around, inexpensive and offering lots to see. Whether you tack on a couple of extra days before or after your cruise, you won’t regret making time to see one of the world’s most vibrant cities.

Two Nights/Three Days
Though Buenos Aires is a large city, you can take in the major attractions in two nights/three days. Be sure to check your ship’s schedule, as some overnight in Buenos Aires, so that you’ll require only one night in a hotel.

During my short stay, I dined extravagantly on world-renowned Argentine beef, took in a tango show, hopped on a city tour and walked the city streets. If you have more time, you can also get out to an estancia (ranch), but if you decide to spend all of your time in the city, you will likely have opportunities to visit estancias on shore excursions during your cruise. 

The first day you’ll spend a good portion of the morning getting through passport control and customs — and checked in to your hotel. If you’re fortunate enough to get a good night’s sleep on the flight to Buenos Aires, you’ll arrive rested enough to begin sightseeing right away. 

Getting From The Airport To Your Hotel
If your travel agent has not made transfer arrangements from the airport to the city center for you, head for the taxi dispatch stand inside the terminal, where you’ll pay around 53 pesos (about $18 — U.S. dollars are accepted) for the 22-mile trip to the city. There’s also a shuttle that will transfer you for about $9 as well as busses that run on the half hour. Argentina’s official tourism department operates kiosks at the airport, so ask for help — and a city map. ATM machines for changing money also are inside the airport terminal.

Where To Stay
Buenos Aires has more than 450 hotels, including big chains such as Four Seasons, Intercontinental, Sheraton, Hilton, Hyatt, Holiday Inn, Marriott and more. On the recommendation of someone familiar with the city, I stayed at a local chain, the Amerian Buenos Aires Park Hotel at 699 Reconquista for about $90 a night, including breakfast and the 21 obligatory percent room tax (www.amerian.com). The hotel was conveniently located, cool and clean.

As I walked through the city, I stopped in at hotels priced as low as $40 per night and as high as several hundred per night. The city’s most expensive hotel is the Alvear Palace Hotel (www.alvearpalace.com), priced from $550 per night to $4,500 per night, and these rates do not include the room tax, but if you’re due for a splurge, this is the hotel for you.

I also peeked in at the Etoile Hotel (www.etoile.com.ar), priced at $118 per night (breakfast and tax included) and located in the charming quarter known as La Recoleta, a neighborhood reminiscent of Paris with lively outdoor cafes, neoclassical mansions and world-class shopping. 

Only a few steps away from the Etoile Hotel is the Recoleta Church and Cemetery, where Buenos Aires’ most illustrious departed lay at rest in ornate mausoleums. Among the most visited is the tomb of Evita Perón, much loved by Argentines for championing the causes of the working class.

Puerto Madero

I never spent more than 9 pesos (about $3) to get anywhere in the city. I rode in a taxi for 20 minutes and spent only 9 pesos getting from my hotel near the trendy Puerto Madero docks (where reclaimed and restored warehouses feature some of the city’s finest restaurants and shops) to colorful La Boca. One porteño — as the 3 million residents of this port city on the Rio de la Plata are known — told me he sold his car when he moved to Buenos Aires, because taxis were so inexpensive.

While I used taxis plenty, I also walked. I made strides along six blocks from my hotel to Plaza de Mayo, a square dominated by the Casa Rosada (Pink House) presidential palace. Nearby, I stepped into the cathedral where San Martín’s repatriated remains lie (Martín helped liberate Argentina from Spanish rule in 1812) and strolled down the grand Avenida de Mayo, opened in 1894 and designed after the avenues of Paris. 

La Boca

I hopped a taxi to the neighborhood of San Telmo, where I sipped coffee at Plaza Dorrego Bar while watching young people hanging out and old men play dominoes on the small square. Sundays, the square becomes an outdoor antiques fair.

From La Boca, I took a taxi through the slums along the waterfront, past trendy Puerto Madero, along Avenida del Libertador and the Malvinas War Memorial (a symbol of Argentina’s claim to the Falkland islands and its loss of the islands to Britain during a 10-week war in 1982), which was tauntingly constructed opposite the Tower of the English. The tower offers a free elevator to the top for panoramic city views. 

Delicioso Dining 
I was told not to leave Argentina without trying carne asadas (grilled meats) at a local parrilla (steakhouse) and enjoying the sweets known as alfajores. I decided to eat my way through the city by sampling both. 

Plaza Dorrego

For carne asadas, I stepped into Las Nazarenas, directly across from the Sheraton at 1132 Reconquista (www.lasnazarenas.com.ar).

I started with grilled Chorizo sausage, followed by grilled provolone cheese topped with oregano and olive oil drizzled over. For my entree, I ordered Bife de Lomo, a small filet mignon and a glass of Malbec (the famed Argentine wine) to wash it down. 

The next afternoon while walking through the city, I stopped at Havanna for an alfajor, the popular Argentine sweet. I’ve heard alfajores described as a Moon Pie with dulce de leche (caramel) instead of marshmallow. That’s a good description, although alfajores are typically smaller in circumference and thicker. 

Two To Tango
That night I headed back to La Boca. My driver dropped me at La Bombonera, the stadium of one of the world’s toughest soccer clubs: Boca Juniors. I wasn’t here to catch a game, however. My destination was next door: La Boca Tango (www.bocatango.com.ar). Open for only six months when I arrived, the new complex features three venues that you move through during the evening. 

First, there is an exhibit that presents what La Boca looked like during the early 1900s when Italian immigrants poured in to the city. I walked through recreated rooms where multiple families shared living quarters and one bathroom. Next, we sat down for dinner, similar to the one I had Las Nazarenas, then followed that by returning to the exhibits, where actors portrayed what life was like for the immigrants. The show was lively and illuminating. 

Afterward, we went inside a belle époque replica of a Parisian theater for a 60-minute tango performance that was mesmerizing. Though it appeared a difficult dance, I talked to travelers who took tango lessons while in Buenos Aires.

Setting Sail
Fortunately, the cruise terminal is near the city center and most cruises depart late in the evening, so you needn’t be in a rush to depart Buenos Aires. You may want to return to the market at San Telmo if your cruise is departing on a Sunday. Otherwise, just enjoy your time in the city. You’ll have plenty of time on the ship during your cruise.

If your cruise ends in Buenos Aires your flight will likely depart for the United States late at night, giving you time to extract the final hours from a city that continues to surprise and delight all who make time for her. — Ralph Grizzle, The Avid Cruiser

Occupying a narrow swath of South America’s west coast, Chile extends nearly 2,700 miles from its southernmost point at Cape Horn to its northern border with Peru. The majestic Andes and the Pacific Ocean flank the country’s western and eastern borders, with slender Chile squeezed in between — averaging only 110 miles wide so that no matter where you are, you’re rarely more than a 90-minute drive from the Andes or the ocean.

Your cruise likely will show you a fair bit of the southern Chilean coastline, including the country’s beautiful fjords and glaciers, as you make your way to or from Valparaiso, Chile’s principle port for cruise passengers.

But to truly get a feel for Chile, you’ll want to spend some time with your boots on the ground, particularly in Central